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Words from Jeff - October

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31st

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October 31st (Sunday) Chacheengsao (Thailand) 82KM

UUUGGGHHH!!!! I'm really suffering on this one, no matter how thirsty I am whatever I drink runs through me in about half an hour. I think I was a little too anxious to get riding on my way to Cambodia and paid for it today! I was barley able to eat anything as I felt nausea each time I even though about it and the hot sun quickly sapped any energy I had - although even in the beginning my legs had nothing which sucks as I am no longer pulling a trailer. The road through Bangkok wasn't too bad at all and the drivers more or less follow the traffic laws - except speeding! After about 40km I would say you are outside the main part of the city and it switches from 6 lane to 2 lane highway - but still good road. Originally I was going to ride to the West border of Cambodia but during the hot sun I decided to ride along the coast, which was my intended return route. This means a little overlap but really I would rather see the ocean than sweat it out in flat grassland. There seems to be many covered bus stops in Thailand so a few times I made use of their fine benches and took a nap - or sort of passed out. I had quite the headache going and this was the only time it seemed to dissipate any. I am 100% sure this is all due to dehydration, which is hard to dehydrate in these conditions. Outside of Bangkok few people speak English but they still try to help you and seem to have a better sense of what is going on than other countries I have visited. They will also mind their own business, which is a welcome relief. The children are very timid and although curious will quickly look away if you look at them or even scatter in one case when I awoke from sleeping.

The only difficulty so far besides my sick body (ahhh pity me please), is locating a hotel. They seem to be a little rare here and even harder to find. I ended up riding an extra 15km than I thought I would but I did find one - boy I was desperate! The man who sent me in the right direction had a daughter who actually went to University in Saskatchewan - poor thing - and he wondered if I would meet her. I was really wiped but I said okay as he seemed insistent. She arrived by motor scooter and we talked for a little while about where I had been etc. He then offered for her to take me to the Temple here, which is the largest in Thailand - again I was thinking hotel but they said it was on the way - not! At this point daughter and mom got on the scooter and told me to follow them. Those women sped off around 28km/hr - which on a normal day was nothing but today it was painful. We quickly got to the temple which looked impressive but you know what? I didn't care. I asked them to take me to the hotel a little slower this time. I don't think the message got across and I was on the verge of puking when we arrived. I was so exhausted from heat and dehydration that I barely checked in. I need my mommy!!!

G

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October 30th (Saturday) Bangkok (Thailand)

Before I speak of Bangkok I must speak of the remaining days I spent in India. Before entering India I had been told many times that you will either 'Love it' or 'Hate it'. I wouldn't say I hated India but there was definitely no Love loss upon leaving. In fact I have never looked forward to leaving a country before with such determination - not even Tibet! At the train station in Varanasi (Oct 26th) I had arrived two hours early in order to book in my bike in trailer with the parcel service. One thing I learned in India is 'Patience is a Necessity!'. The bonehead/weasel behind the desk - this man caused me a great deal of grief and possibly on purpose - said that he could not take the bike or trailer on this departure time. We argued for some time - I am tending to use the F word a lot more these days - I.E. 'I cannot have my F.... bike arrive on a different train because I F...... fly out of Calcutta tomorrow!'. Finally he agreed to send the bike on this train but I would have to take the trailer with me, which sucked, but I can compromise. For whatever reason I could not leave my bags or trailer in the luggage storage as they were not sealed items???? So I just left them outside jack asses office. I went out for some food and then came back to lug everything over to the departure platform. The trailer is damn heavy even though I am wheeling it around sort of. The train is another place where overpopulation is evident in the way people treat each other as cattle. People push aside women and children and nobody says a word - it is really sad how women are treated as second class citizens and yet the mother is worshipped?

Yes I am picking on India, but honestly it has a lot of growing up to do and it reminds me a little of China in the saving face characteristic. If your wrong or there are problems with your country then don't hide it by talking about the good things, it insults our intelligence. Fix your countries problems or fix yourself - be f---ing accountable or make your country accountable!!!!!!

The train ride was comparatively uneventful and actually I got some sleep as they left all of the windows open for a nice draft. When I arrived in Calcutta I went tot he tourist office, which were nowhere as helpful as the one in Varanasi, in fact they were as useless as tits on a bull. I had to track down the parcel office on my own and when I got there they tried to get me to sign the receipt indicating my bike had arrived - I don't think so sparky! Of course it hadn't arrived and no one knew how to track it down - I was slowly getting angry at this point! I talked with maybe 5 different people and spent a total of three hours just to hear 'all we can do is wait'. No need to explain my feelings at this point. I took down this fools number and grabbed a taxi from the prepaid line up. Of course this system works in other countries but not India although it's the thought that counts. The taxi took me to Sutter street which is a tourist kind of place but is unable to enter from the side he drove me too. I am sure he was quite aware of this but I got out anyway as I did not want to argue any more. I took a manual rickshaw to a hotel where the driver now wanted 100 rupee instead of the 20 rupee we agreed too. I literally told him 'F--- off' and waved him a way with a glare like I was going to kill him. He seemed to get the message, which is good because I was at the breaking point.

When I called my parcel service dude that night the train still hadn't arrived so the next day when I went in I freaked out on a few people. This unfortunately seems the only way to get something accomplished in India although I knew they were stalling me by taking me to the unloading bays when they knew the bike wasn't there. The bike did finally arrive at 11:30 so I rode back to the hotel and gathered my stuff from storage - yes they charged me even though I stayed there the night before. I quickly set off for the airport even the flight was at 1AM as I had had my fill of Calcutta for a lifetime.

There were no hotels or anything for that matter near the airport so I rode to a hotel on the outskirts to take a shower. They wanted 300 rupee!!!! Don't pay more than 150 Rupee for a hotel. I went to another hotel and they wanted 700?? I bargained down to 60 but should have known there was a misunderstanding. I showered and then ordered some food and when I went to pay the bill, they wanted 600 for taking a shower. I flat out told I wouldn't pay 600 and there was nothing they could do about it. That seemed to change their tone a little and they totally backed down and waved the cost. I then went to the airport and assembled the bike box and disassembled the bike for a crowd of on lookers. The airport is actually pretty small for international flights but it is air-conditioned and comfortable. During take off I started feeling the old stomach flu a brewing so after pissing out my ass I took a diarrhea pill - I guess India had the last laugh! Thai air has amazing service though and the stewardess kept checking on me. The really do have a nice airline and the food was served quicker than any other flight I have taken. You have to remember this flight is under three hours. Anyway they kicked some serious ass and well the scenery was pretty cool as well - werd!

Okay so you arrive in Bangkok - I always believe that the airport is a good reflection of what is to come in the next few days.
1) Within 2 minutes of exiting the plane there is a help desk where English is spoken.
2) Signage was great all over the airport.
3) 100 meters after help desk you get your visa - 5 booths.
4) Ride escalator walk 30 paces to tourist office.
5) Walk 30 more paces and there are 3 money exchange places.
6) Walk 100 meters to outside and buy bus ticket for roomy air-conditioned bus.

Thailand is the tourist capitol of Asia and I can see why. China and India need to wake up. At the bus stop near Koa San road Tony was waiting for me and had booked a room and found storage for my extra gear. By this time I was starting to feel really ill but I was still mobile. The lady at the hotel had a serious attitude and never smiled - we would clash the next day. That night we went for dinner and it was apparent that I was becoming sicker and by the next day I was pretty wiped out. I asked the lady for the cost of a single room with AC - it was too expensive - and then without. This seemed to piss her off and she quoted a higher price for the single without AC. I said okay and Tony can leave his stuff in my room while he awaits his departure - NO! I told her she was crazy and then she said I was crazy and before getting into it I walked off and found another hotel. At this stage I was sweating as it is hot but I was really feeling sick. I found another hotel and with Tony's help moved in. By the way the place with the bitch is the 'Walley' hotel, so don't stay there. For the rest of the day I was bed ridden and Tony actually went to the pharmacy to get me some drugs. I was able to go out for a few sips of soup and then later to see Tony off but I was bed ridden all night and finally got up and out today. It is now around 6 PM the next day and I feel better in a relative term as this headache just wont go away. Tomorrow I leave for Cambodia where I expect to contract malaria - knock on wood!

G

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October 20th (Wednesday) Varanasi

I don't usually write on the rest days but today was special enough to do so. Before I explain today though I must recap what happened last night. The main center of Varanasi is considered a holy city as this is where Hindus and Muslims slaughtered each other during India's Independence - well actually it was everywhere... Anyway you cannot buy alcohol of any kind within the old part of the city and must either leave the area or have someone from your hotel restaurant go get some for you. Most restaurants are conveniently located on the rooftop. After a few beers I decided to venture out within the city to find more beer. As I passed the front desk the manager asked if I wanted to go one a small boat tour of the Ganga River at 5:30 the next day. To say that my judgment was a little impaired on this one would be the most proper of statements - 5:30!!!! DOHHH!!!

So now back to today. I had a slight hangover and actually awoke before 5:30 - unbelievable. I wanted to sleep in so bad but I am glad I stuck it out. The sunrise was pretty cool and the river didn't seem too dirty until a 'human hand' floated by the boat!!! A little later we saw a whole body floating kind of hunched over but the hand was more scary too me - the hand monster attacks tourist! The riverbanks are alive in the mornings as people are taking their morning swim or bath and doing laundry. They have their own justifications of why the river is actually clean but I don't buy it. Cremation requires 350 kilos of wood for burning and usually this will cost 750 - 1000 rupees depending on the wood. The breast plat of the man and pelvic bone of the women do not totally burn into ash and are therefore thrown into the river where fish eat the remains. It is then up to the fish to speak with god and determine whether the soul of this person can go to Nirvana or is reincarnated as another human due to their bad karma. The exceptions are lepers without legs or hands (it would be physically impossible to do evil), holy men (all holy men are good as history shows), children under the age of nine (becuase those little s---s don't know their bad), pregnant women (becuase they are carrying a child and the little s--- is only kicking their mother at that point) and people without money for wood. Everyone else is cremated. The process is done within 6 hours of death if I remember correctly so the body doesn't stink or rot. For the people that aren't cremated for reasons previously mentioned, they have a stone tied to their body and are dropped in the middle of the river as no purification by cremation is required.

After the boat ride the group I was with went back to the hotel and had breakfast. The manager then took us two Danes and me on a little tour of some temples and fabric looms. The two Swedish women didn't come with us - doh - kidding I have a girlfriend! The manager like a lot of people I have met in India are very devoted Hindus. They really hold the word of god as the means of living. I listened patiently as I wish to learn of other beliefs and ways of life but when I often tried to contradict him or explain some of the hypothesis as human psyche he quickly cut me off and talked about something else. This became quite annoying and I find this kind of attitude among people with closed minds. Don't get me wrong, he was a nice guy, but walking on water just doesn't float with me - excuse the play on words. The looms are the old hand looms with the punch card ribbons etc. He showed us some of the finished product but honestly they were nothing special and when you look closely there were lots of loose strings etc. I have found that in most countries over here the really good stuff is extremely expensive - more than in the west but probably worth it - the rest is mostly crap that looks okay at first glance but wouldn't last a year. I'm sorry I only buy functional items.

After the tour I went for lunch and then walked to the market area in the old part of town. The alleys are very narrow and can be confusing on the first couple of walk throughs. It is somewhat like Venice but motorbikes and bicycles are also on these paths. From there I emerged on the banks of the Ganga were there is basically steps (ghats) leading down to it for probably 3 kilometers. Right now there happens to be a festival going on in all of India. Down by the river they had some dances etc. going on and I sat and watched for a while. As with China if there is no set price like in a menu or something they try to charge you foreigner price. They also have the tendency to give back incorrect change and then smile at you as you glare back at them as if you can't count. This kind of pettiness is really sad. Yes life is hard here but dishonesty is wrong and we westerners weren't always so rich - we had a thing called the depression!!!! Anyway I don't want to get on a rant about this one but I hate pettiness. Overall I still like India and am still interested in coming back to explore other areas but for short periods of time only. I think this is maybe what detracts people from India, that and the crazy traffic in cities.

G

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October 19th (Tuesday) Varanasi (India) 133KM

Tired, tired, tired… The ride was uneventful and I can't really recommend biking through India just yet, but I will be taking the train to Calcutta to see if it is any worse. The road was a little better today and even had some brand new paved sections but since the terrain is so flat it is hard to keep motivated. Over the last three days I noticed everyone on a motorcycle or bicycle like to tail me (draft me) which in effect saps away some of my momentum. I am starting to find it annoying and usually enact one of the following options; I slow down so they pass, speed up so they can't keep up or I confront them and tell them to bugger off. I am also finding that most people want to race you as well. Pride always seems to get in the way here and I end up racing for a kilometer until they give up. In a weird way it breaks up the monotony. Of course they are only riding a few kilometers while I am averaging over 100. As you get into the outskirts of Varanasi you need to rely on your instincts a bit and I think this time I fluked a bit as I only asked for directions once. This happened to be two Aussie gals who informed me how to get to the railway station, which had a tourist office. After crossing under the tracks head west until you reach the station! They men working there were the most helpful so far and spoke great English. The helped me find a hotel for the price range and a location I wanted - I was really impressed by the gentlemen working there. After that I hit what I can only describe as the most chaotic traffic jam ever. This was of course normal. Bumper to bumper is close to describing this but really it was bump the person ahead of you then stop. At one point I got behind a parade of Elephants, Camels, horses and swordsman. I had to stop to film this! I think I am starting to like India!

G

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October 18th (Monday) Maunath Bhanjan (India) 111 KM

I was actually able to find Internet last night. I met a lawyer while I was looking for a place and after completing his work he drove me to a place. Nice guy but crazy driver! I grabbed some dinner on the way back and decided to go to bed early. My hotel was across from the railway station so I was expecting a little noise throughout the night but I was in for a little surprise. Outside my window was a makeshift temple that was all lit up with the streaming lights and had music cranking out of it. It started at 11PM and lasted most of the night. I remember looking out my tinted green window late at night and thinking I was in the matrix. To top it off the bugs were in full force. Sleep was minimal. The next morning room service banged on the door at 8AM. Hmmmmmm staying one night - gee I guess I need new sheets in the morning even though I am leaving! Anyway I told him I didn't need anything and slammed the door in his face. When I was leaving I apologized for being an asshole.

The ride today was good for the most part but leaving Gorakhpur was horrendously chaotic. The traffic also picked up in the countryside and every small town I passed was in total chaos and usually had pretty bumpy road running through it. I just didn't seem to have too much energy today and the saddle sores are back with a vengeance. When I got to Maunath it was just after 3PM so I was thinking about going further. However I decided to eat first, and after having a good meal I decided to call it a day. After a shower I started walking around the town. The main part of the city was apparently a bit out of the way according to this dude I met on a motorcycle. We chatted for a while and then he wanted me to meet his friends so I obliged and once again I was someone's bitch on the back of a motorbike! It was actually good to meet some people that were a little younger and we had some good conversation. Eventually the mosquitos became unbearable - these guys were wearing pants but it was too hot for me in shorts, so I got a ride back to the hotel. From there we kind of continued the conversation and briefly touched on the caste system and the differences between families and relationships. Tomorrow I ride to Varanasi where I plan to stay a few days and then I will take the train to Calcutta as I have only a short period of time until my flight to Bangkok.

G

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October 17th (Sunday) Gorakhpur (India!) 135KM

India… flat as a pancake! Actually from Butwal to the border it is also flat. You can find numerous places on the way and on the either side of the border to exchange money. I was also lead to believe you couldn't get a visa at the border, but this is not the case. In fact you can get a 30 day visa free for the rest of 2004!!!!! Damn!!!!!! The people in India and much like the Nepalese, very friendly and it is actually clean except in bigger towns and cities. China needs to wake up, stop littering!!!!! The countryside although flat is nice with lots of farmland where the main crop seems to be wheat. There is not as much English signage however a lack of any signage when the road forks - memories of China - but I seem to find my way around by asking at least three people. The road itself is very good and the road markers are the same as Nepal as far as information, so you will know when you are going the wrong way. Is there anywhere you can get a burger around here? Kidding

G

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October 16th (Saturday) Butwal (Nepal) 169KM

I spent most of yesterday mulling around Pokhara - well the tourist section anyway. I also rented a boat and paddled to the small island with the Stuppa. I then Paddled into the open waters and let the current take me around as I read the book - this is on a lake so it's all lies. From Pokhara you can see a great view of the Himalayans as well - mainly the 'Fish Tail' and Annapurna. Anytime after say 10 AM it gets clouded over from melting snow but in the morning it was crystal clear. I got up around 6:30 and had left town by 7 so I got great views from the outskirts of town. As soon as you leave the city limits of Pokhara you start on a series of switchbacks until about 1500 meters. During this climb I stopped many times to snap pictures of Annapurna. The upper mountain has icefall all over except one steep rocky section. It looks very difficult to climb and I still can't believe the French climbed it let alone find it way back in the early 50's. The road was in excellent condition except maybe the last 3 kilometers outside Butwal - something tells me Potter will love this name. After the first little pass it is mostly downhill but there is a bit of up and down. Around 80km you start the final real climb of Nepal up to Tansen. From there it is truly a massive downhill and you can reach speeds of 60 + without any effort although I kept it under 45. I rode for 12 hours today and yes it was dark for the last 10 kilometers which always sucks but traffic was pretty light for most of the day and night time was only a little bit more busy. Anyway there were lots of potholes that could have been avoided had I had night vision. There were of course more spectacular views this day and I can't say enough about how friendly the Nepalese are. They almost never touch your stuff and always want to know where you're from. They always say to me 'I love Canada!'. I love Nepal!

G

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October 14th (Thursday) Pokhara (Nepal) 92KM

Tony and I parted ways today; he is going back to Kathmandu while I am off to India. We will meet again in Bangkok on the 28th for a day and then he flies back to France. It was really great to ride with him and slumming it in Kathmandu - well that wasn't so bad either. Today was good to get out on my own though, as I do like to ride solo and discover things for myself. It was to easy before as Tony had already been to Nepal. The road to Pokhara continues much the same as the road to the Gorkha turnoff- rolling hills but good road. There is a little rough section about 15km out of Pokhara but nothing major. Near the end of the ride I was pretty tired, as I hadn't really biked for 20 days will I ate and drank and slept in Kathmandu - lazy bastard, I deserve this! The road markers in Nepal are excellent; they mention the distance to major towns as well as minor ones. They are not every kilometer like China but every 3 or 4 kilometers instead. They are also in English!!!! Nepal is great!!!!

G

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October 13th (Wednesday) Aanboo Khaireni (Nepal) 17KM

The ride to Aanboo continued with the same kind of rolling hills as the day before except no rain and some great views of the river. We were intending to ride to Gorkha but as we neared we realized we were still tired from the previous day and it was out of the way. We stopped at the turn off and booked a hotel then physically ran to catch a bus - 20 rupees (40 cents).

For those that ride: it is single lane with a quite a bit of traffic but the road is good otherwise.

After we arrived we determined the last bus to be around 5:30 but it turned out to be an unnecessary challenge as we caught a bus around 4:30 instead. Anyway we climbed up the mountainside and for some reason took the small footpaths that ran between houses and little schools instead of the main path. There is a temple and summer resort for the king of Nepal, which you are allowed to visit the surrounding area. From there you see an incredible view of Mt. Ganesh and the some of the Himalayas. There are military everywhere up there and for whatever reason one of the plainclothes ones decided to give us a little tour of the outskirts. They view as mentioned were incredible - lush green valleys of jungle topped with 7000 and 8000 meter snowy peaks. I really hope the government and Maoists can settle their differences soon as this country is so beautiful not to be seen and the people are incredibly friendly.

G

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October 12th (Tuesday) Riverside Resort (Nepal) 116KM

'Like drowned rats' is the most fitting description for Tony and I after today's ride. We started a little late, as we wanted to have our last steak and eggs breakfast and it ended up shorting our trip due to darkness. Within 2 kilometers of leaving the hotel in Kathmandu, Tony got a nasty flat and it started to rain. It was still kind of warm at this point but it started to pour within the next hour, which cooled things off considerably. I had packed what remained of any warm clothing thinking I wouldn't need it - wrong! The ride out of Kathmandu is uphill for approximately 20km depending where you stay and then it is a good 5 - 10km downhill. We had to keep our speed in check as it was slippery but mostly because it was so frigging cold our teeth were chattering. The road is good for the most part and there is a lot of up and down but no long climbs. It was much easier with the reduced weight but I still have a trailer full of gifts and things I don't need. When I get to Thailand I will leave the whole trailer and occupying backpack at the airport. Our goal today was Gorkha where most of the British mercenaries came from over the years. There is also a great vantage point to see Mt. Ganesh. We however had to stop about 17km away as mentioned. The hotel here is the nicest yet but expensive, 10CDN each!

G

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Oct 4th (Monday) Kathmandu (Nepal)

Okay it has been very long since I last wrote but I have been extremely busy doing nothing. This is not totally true but for a good 9 days our routine was steak and eggs for breakfast and many visits to the bakery (half price after 7PM). We did many walks around Thamel, which is the main tourist district and saw sites such as the Monkey temple and Durbar Square. We also got Tony's computer fixed - partition failed - and booked our trips home and to other countries. My flight back to Vancouver is on November 24th from Bangkok and I also booked a flight from Calcutta to Bangkok on October 28th. In the first few days after arriving here (Sept 20th) we were lucky enough to run into the Swiss man we met at Everest base camp so we went for dinner with him and his wife. They have traveled extensively and had many interesting stories of countries in the early days compared to now and there is just too much to mention here.

We both wanted to go rafting so we booked a 4 day rafting and Safari in Chitiwan national animal reserve for September 28th. This was a Tuesday and on the Monday I was supposed to apply for my Indian Visa but got there too late. We also later found out there was a 'General Strike' called by the Maoists on September 28th and 29th - shit! Okay so rafting was delayed till September 30th but I was able to book the return ticket and run a few errands. Anyway the Monday (27th) was world tourism day and Thamel closed it streets to cars, motorcycles and rickshaws and restaurants served food in the streets or setup tables outside. There was also live music and on the entranceway to Thamel they had a DJ who played to a crowd of maybe a thousand Nepalese who were dancing in the streets. It was great and we also met two Nepalese dudes who offered to show us around the next two days during the strike. We hung out for the two days and on Wednesday night we went to their house were one of their mothers cooked use dinner - right on!!!

On the Thursday we finally left for rafting and boy did it kick ass. It was my first time and I must say it was most excellent! I have no prior river experience to compare the rapids too but some of the holes were 3 meters deep and we tried to steer clear of most of them - it was scary but exhilarating at the same time. I definitely will do it again but I won't have time on this trip. The ride to Chitiwan was on pretty rough road and even more so due to me, Tony, a German (Kersten) and four Russians riding the roof rack of the bus. It was quite funny but brutal in a fun kind of way. Oh by the way the food on the rafting trip was excellent!

When we got to the outskirts of Chitiwan we switched to a van and rode to a little guesthouse, which could house around 30 people. Shortly after we went for a little nature walk as the sun was setting and managed to encounter full grown elephants for the first time in my life - incredible animals!!!! The next day we rode an elephant on a 3 - 4 hour safari. The saddle is maybe 4 feet square and very uncomfortable for four people. It was some serious suffering and I wanted to get off and walk but had to just suck it in the best I could. We did manage to see a baby Rhino and its mother and nearer the end of the trip another pair of full grown Rhino's. Part of the trip was through tall grasslands and by no exaggeration it was higher than 3.5 meters - it was higher than me and I was riding an elephant! Anyway I guess it is pretty dangerous due to the many inhabitants such as Tigers, Rhino's, Snakes and Leaches! When we got back we had a little snack and then went to the river to bath with the elephants - it was cool. The elephant would spray you with its snout or flop on it's side under the water effectively tossing you off. They are magnificent creatures however most are abused - the trainers hit then with sticks or rods of iron) and really shouldn't meant from amusement. I did enjoy it though and recommend it. The water in the river was actually pretty warm so I did a little swimming, but no brain worms to report Sherry. After lunch we took the option for the jungle walk, which is actually inside of Chitiwan Park, which is surrounded on all sides by water. I put on my special jungle gear, flip flops, tank top, and shorts and went looking for wild animals - animals that kill!!!!! Well we didn't see any Tigers but I did manage to attract a few leaches - yuck - as did Tony. You can't really feel the little buggers so if your not wearing the proper gear you have to periodically check your feet and legs. We only had a few hours to walk around but the best deal if you come here is to take 2 -3 days. This allows you to walk to the center of the park where they have a guesthouse. From there you can walk to a lake were they have been an observatory overlooking the lake.

After crossing back over the river we sat in one of the many little tables facing the park and on this occasion beautiful sunset. We had a few beers and some momo, which is like jiao ze (Chinese dumpling) but better. It was a great day altogether and I felt very relaxed. The next day we were to go on a short stint bird watching but it poured so we had breakfast and then went to catch the bus back to Kathmandu. The ride back was long and hot - 12 hours as the road is very bad in sections until you get to the main highway. From there, you cross many checkpoints where they don't really stop tourist but definitely search the Nepalese. This country is in need of arbitration instead of the US giving weapons to the government - the UN needs to take some action but I need time to think about proper ways of intervention. Anyway the whole trip, meals, lodging etc only cost $92US and the hosts were most friendly and gracious. We used Beyond the Limits in Thamel to book the trip. So my flights are booked and I have sent back the winter gear 20 kilos!!!!!! So the rest of the biking should be a piece of cake LOL. Nepal is really, really, really great!!! I would come back here anytime!!!!

G

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e-mail: jeff@jeffglen.ca